Arizona Road Trip 2019
April 2019 and Sarah and I have traded in our 6 year old Toyota team for new vehicles. This time we chose Range Rover, something a little more refined, less versatile but overall an improvement in cabin comfort. So, what better way to celebrate a week old vehicle than to take it on an 8000 km (4970 mile) road trip.
I left Cochrane on Sunday April 7th in mid afternoon, to make the first leg of the trip, a short hop to Great Falls Montana. It was comforting to see the 'fuel range remaining' reading 924 km (574 miles) I breezed along main highways heading south to the border crossing at Coutts/Sweet Grass.
From the border it's just a 2 hour run on I-15 south to Great Falls thanks to the 85 mph (136 kmh) interstate speed in Montana. As regulars will know I'm not generally a lover of interstate travel but I-15 is a special case. You can enjoy this road from the Canadian border all the way to Los Angeles California some 1374 miles (2211 km) away. It carries you high on endless plateaus across the enormous skies of Montana. It twists through wonderful tight canyons as you cross the border into Idaho. You continue through the Beaverhead/Deerlodge National Forest to Idaho Falls where you might turn west to the Craters of the Moon National Monument. Staying with I-15 brings you across the border into Utah and beside the Great Salt Lake, continuing south west carries you through some of the most stunning scenery in the USA. Southern Utah is an incredible place with stunning national parks scattered across its vast wilderness areas. Crossing the southern border of Utah now into Nevada and close to the beauty of the Valley of Fire State Park about an hour north east of Las Vegas and largely overlooked by the masses heading to the Hoover Dam and Lake Mead. I-15 continues through the heart of Las Vegas before cutting into California and across the Mojave Desert, before you know it you are turning south through the Angeles National Forest and into that city of sin, LA California. As I said, I-15 is an exception.
I had hoped to make some sunset images of the falls at Great Falls, unfortunately the weather turned and thick cloud ended those plans abruptly. I decided to have an early night and get on the road in good time the next day to gain ground to the south and outrun the winter storm that was due to pass through. I did stop at Clark Canyon Dam along the way and made a few shots of the new truck and those Montana skies.
I left Cochrane on Sunday April 7th in mid afternoon, to make the first leg of the trip, a short hop to Great Falls Montana. It was comforting to see the 'fuel range remaining' reading 924 km (574 miles) I breezed along main highways heading south to the border crossing at Coutts/Sweet Grass.
From the border it's just a 2 hour run on I-15 south to Great Falls thanks to the 85 mph (136 kmh) interstate speed in Montana. As regulars will know I'm not generally a lover of interstate travel but I-15 is a special case. You can enjoy this road from the Canadian border all the way to Los Angeles California some 1374 miles (2211 km) away. It carries you high on endless plateaus across the enormous skies of Montana. It twists through wonderful tight canyons as you cross the border into Idaho. You continue through the Beaverhead/Deerlodge National Forest to Idaho Falls where you might turn west to the Craters of the Moon National Monument. Staying with I-15 brings you across the border into Utah and beside the Great Salt Lake, continuing south west carries you through some of the most stunning scenery in the USA. Southern Utah is an incredible place with stunning national parks scattered across its vast wilderness areas. Crossing the southern border of Utah now into Nevada and close to the beauty of the Valley of Fire State Park about an hour north east of Las Vegas and largely overlooked by the masses heading to the Hoover Dam and Lake Mead. I-15 continues through the heart of Las Vegas before cutting into California and across the Mojave Desert, before you know it you are turning south through the Angeles National Forest and into that city of sin, LA California. As I said, I-15 is an exception.
I had hoped to make some sunset images of the falls at Great Falls, unfortunately the weather turned and thick cloud ended those plans abruptly. I decided to have an early night and get on the road in good time the next day to gain ground to the south and outrun the winter storm that was due to pass through. I did stop at Clark Canyon Dam along the way and made a few shots of the new truck and those Montana skies.
I drove a long day on day two in order to bypass the storm and landed in a hotel in Salt Lake City Utah. Once checked in and able to drop the bags off I drove to Antelope Island in the hope of hitting a sunset there. I arrived in good time and made some nice short hikes around the rocky outcrops there and across the flats where I came across a huge buffalo paddling in the great salt lake. The sunset was not great owing to the winter storm passing to the north, but it stayed dry and I got to enjoy the park for the evening, I think what bit of sunset there was demonstrates the potential of the location.
I got back to the hotel quite late and slept well knowing I had dodged the storm. In the morning I took a leisurely breakfast to start the day and then set out, turning west on I-80 to reach Bonneville Salt Flats where the Rangie was treated to paddle in the melt water and a run on the measured mile. In the main shot the 'gap' area in the reflection is actually a very thin layer of ice on the shallow water. You can click the image for a larger version and see the patterns in the salt bed below the water on the right side of the shot.
From the salt flats of Utah I continued west into Nevada to the town of West Wendover before turning south on US 93, a beautiful highway passing through mountains, deserts and volcanic fields as it meanders along the borderlands of Nevada and Utah. After turning onto highway 6 toward 'Warm Springs' I came across Luna Crater, a huge volcanic crater and associated lava flow that dwarfs the Rangie parked at the end of the flow. Imagine this molten mass moving across the desert toward you, it must have been a staggering sight.
From the larva fields I turned west/southwest to the town of Beatty where I booked into a fantastic little motel called the Atomic Motel. Wild donkeys roamed the streets outside and the wifi password was 'lostinspace' ...it was perfect. The desert highways and flowering Joshua trees kept me entertained along the way.
From the larva fields I turned west/southwest to the town of Beatty where I booked into a fantastic little motel called the Atomic Motel. Wild donkeys roamed the streets outside and the wifi password was 'lostinspace' ...it was perfect. The desert highways and flowering Joshua trees kept me entertained along the way.
After a restful night in the Atomic Inn watched over by donkeys and Aliens I rose early and headed west across the border into Death Valley National Park. I hadn't aimed to be there for sunrise so hadn't picked out a location to shoot from. So as I entered the park in the morning blue hour I stopped and made a single shot of the milky way still visible in the night sky and looked around for a sunrise location. I didn't see one readily and as the sun would be rising soon I decide to scale a nearby ridge and take an overview. I hauled all of the photo gear up the ridge with me and made a long exposure shot of a car heading into the park below. From my perch I was able to shoot some sunrise images but the lack of planning for this left me disappointed with the results.
After sunrise I continued on toward Badwater Basin stopping off at Harmony Borax Works where in the late 1800's teams of twenty mules would haul wagons of borax across the desert. Little remains of the site but it's a great place to stretch the legs and explore a little.
From the Borax Works I continued to Badwater Basin, the lowest point in North America, a long hike out across the salt flats there brings you to some beautiful formations of lifted salt 'trays', be warned, you need to get here early and take plenty of water with you. The hike to the unspoiled trays is much further than you may think and as people pursue them they tread down more so I have no doubt the hike will continue to get longer as time goes by.
Back on the Badwater Road and continuing south I reach Ashford Mill ruins where I stopped to explore once again. The mill was used to process gold ore from a local mine and provides some nice photo opportunity in the vast expanse of desert.
The recent rainfall had caused a wonderful bloom in the parched land leaving almost every cactus displaying vibrant colours in a desperate bid for pollination before the desert heat evaporates their glory.
The recent rainfall had caused a wonderful bloom in the parched land leaving almost every cactus displaying vibrant colours in a desperate bid for pollination before the desert heat evaporates their glory.
I finally left Death Valley after 8 hours and continued my journey on highway 127 south toward Baker California. After driving for about 45 minutes I came across an off road area named 'Dumont Little Dunes' and decided to give the Rangie a run out on the sand, it was good fun but remote and empty so I didn't go mad at it in case I got stuck!
After leaving I found another one of those roadside shoe trees that scatter the US, not an actual tree this time but an old petrol station long since abandoned, now heavily adorned with shoes. What is that all about? Do people carry old shoes around waiting for a likely spot to dangle them or are they throwing away perfectly good shoes on a whim. I have no answers just questions.
After leaving I found another one of those roadside shoe trees that scatter the US, not an actual tree this time but an old petrol station long since abandoned, now heavily adorned with shoes. What is that all about? Do people carry old shoes around waiting for a likely spot to dangle them or are they throwing away perfectly good shoes on a whim. I have no answers just questions.
You can only mess around in the sand for so long before you have to keep the wheels moving south, so I was soon back to the highway and on to the Mojave Desert for a straight drive through the flowering cacti and dry wilderness to the town of Twentynine Palms just north of Joshua Tree National Park.
I had settled into my hotel in Twentynine Palms after a long day on the road, in distance it was only about a 5 hour journey but I had strung that out to 13 hours exploring here there and everywhere. I considered calling it a day and heading into Joshua Tree National Park the next day but the thought of a sunset in the park caused me to change plans.
I packed the photo gear and headed out again and made my way through the park stopping at a few locations along the way until I reached Keys View, a well known overlook in the park. I set up the tripod and camera with an ND filter to balance out the light and waited. Whilst waiting I got chatting to a geordie bloke who was working in Los Angeles and had rented a muscle car to drive out to the park for sunset.
It was great to hear the dulcet tones of a fellow northerner and we chatted until dark whilst making images as we did.
I packed the photo gear and headed out again and made my way through the park stopping at a few locations along the way until I reached Keys View, a well known overlook in the park. I set up the tripod and camera with an ND filter to balance out the light and waited. Whilst waiting I got chatting to a geordie bloke who was working in Los Angeles and had rented a muscle car to drive out to the park for sunset.
It was great to hear the dulcet tones of a fellow northerner and we chatted until dark whilst making images as we did.
The next morning I took a long lay in, a slow breakfast and a steady drive east to Phoenix Arizona, a day earlier than planned. I booked into the hotel Sarah and I would be using the next night, I had a lovely dinner nearby before calling it a night and heading to bed.
In the morning I killed some time at breakfast before walking across to an outlet mall beside the hotel and spending a few dollars on T-shirts and shorts before heading back to the room. I waited until 5pm before making the drive across the city to South Mountain Park.
In the park I made for a known local sunset location called Dobbins Lookout stopping along the way for a few short hikes to smaller lookout points. Even though the sunset wasn't the best I made a good go of it before shooting a night scene to finish. As I made my way to the airport to collect Sarah from her 9pm arrival I found my earlier shower and change was wasted as I arrived at the airport covered in cacti spikes and desert dust from the hiking. But hey, I was on time and in the right place and we laughed about it as I drove us back to the hotel.
In the morning I killed some time at breakfast before walking across to an outlet mall beside the hotel and spending a few dollars on T-shirts and shorts before heading back to the room. I waited until 5pm before making the drive across the city to South Mountain Park.
In the park I made for a known local sunset location called Dobbins Lookout stopping along the way for a few short hikes to smaller lookout points. Even though the sunset wasn't the best I made a good go of it before shooting a night scene to finish. As I made my way to the airport to collect Sarah from her 9pm arrival I found my earlier shower and change was wasted as I arrived at the airport covered in cacti spikes and desert dust from the hiking. But hey, I was on time and in the right place and we laughed about it as I drove us back to the hotel.
Our morning started with a nice breakfast before a lovely drive to Meteor Crater close to Winslow in northern Arizona. It's a spectacular thing to see and has a museum including the remnant of the meteor that struck here. In the middle of the crater is a mine shaft where the meteor was excavated.
Our next stop was the Petrified Forest National Park close to Holbrook AZ where trees lay as they fell in the late Triassic period 225 million years ago, only now seemingly preserved by minerals slowly leaching into them and replacing the wood with stone. The trees themselves are long gone but their replacements are a carbon copy of their predecessors.
The road through the petrified forest leads into the Painted Desert, a wonderful burst of colour in the northern Arizona desert. Created by layers of siltstone, mudstone and shale from the Triassic period the exposed pigments of iron and manganese create a masterpiece of nature.
A planned part of our Arizona jaunt was a night in the wigwam motel in Holbrook. A route 66 motel classic the wigwam is long past it's former glory. Each of the concrete wigwams has an old car parked outside, the whole site is a 'statement', part artwork/part accommodation, listed on the national register of historic places it deserves better.
Inside the wigwams a double bed, armchair, TV and desk fill the main area, to the rear is a separate bathroom with shower, sink and WC. This place could be such a wonder, but, as with many of Americas glory days it has passed, the gloss has worn off and there seems to be little interest from anyone in regaining the lustre, it's a real shame.
I loved our night in the Wigwam motel, not because of the quality of the accommodation, but because I have wanted to stay here since I passed by in 2008. It's still a wonder, the concept is flawless, but the execution leaves a lot to be desired.
Inside the wigwams a double bed, armchair, TV and desk fill the main area, to the rear is a separate bathroom with shower, sink and WC. This place could be such a wonder, but, as with many of Americas glory days it has passed, the gloss has worn off and there seems to be little interest from anyone in regaining the lustre, it's a real shame.
I loved our night in the Wigwam motel, not because of the quality of the accommodation, but because I have wanted to stay here since I passed by in 2008. It's still a wonder, the concept is flawless, but the execution leaves a lot to be desired.
After our night in the wigwam motel we set out for Tuscon AZ well ahead of schedule. We made a meandering journey through the Apache National Forest and onto the Tonto National Forest where we stopped at an overlook for a huge canyon we had just driven through. I couldn't get Sarah to stand on one leg as usual because the point we were on hung over a large drop and she didn't like the look of it.
On arrival in Tuscon we went to an outlet shopping mall close to the hotel before checking in and freshening up. Once we had rested a little we set out for the Saguaro National Park for sunset. It was lovely to see the park and the huge 'cowboy cacti' scattered across the mountains there, but the sunset itself was a bit of a let down. We did meet a local guy named Nathan and had a great time chatting away until dark when we finally packed up the camera gear and returned to the hotel.
On arrival in Tuscon we went to an outlet shopping mall close to the hotel before checking in and freshening up. Once we had rested a little we set out for the Saguaro National Park for sunset. It was lovely to see the park and the huge 'cowboy cacti' scattered across the mountains there, but the sunset itself was a bit of a let down. We did meet a local guy named Nathan and had a great time chatting away until dark when we finally packed up the camera gear and returned to the hotel.
The next morning we returned to Phoenix for a lazy day in the city and had a nice dinner together for our last evening before Sarah flew back to Calgary. Rather than stay another night in Phoenix I made inroads into the journey home by heading up to Page in northern AZ for the night. Next day I drove to Salt Lake City again and stayed over just north of the city centre. From there I made the hop to Butte Montana for my last day out of the trip.
I scouted the area and found a reasonable sunset location at Big Butte Recreation Area (I feel there's a joke about ass size here somewhere) The huge copper mine across the way made their own painted desert on the outskirts of the city, and as night fell the old mine workings showed themselves in neon red.
Next morning I made the last leg of the journey back to Cochrane where Sarah and I could spend the Easter weekend together.
I scouted the area and found a reasonable sunset location at Big Butte Recreation Area (I feel there's a joke about ass size here somewhere) The huge copper mine across the way made their own painted desert on the outskirts of the city, and as night fell the old mine workings showed themselves in neon red.
Next morning I made the last leg of the journey back to Cochrane where Sarah and I could spend the Easter weekend together.
So, another great road trip draws to a close. We saw some wonderful things, met great people and experienced so much in such a short time....can't wait for the next one.