Little Beehive - Spring
Date Walked: 23rd April 2012
Distance: 7.3miles (11.9km)
Actual Ascent: 1922 ft (586m)
Time Taken: 5 hours
With the sun shining almost everywhere in the Rockies this week I thought a change of scenery would be nice, though snow would still be an issue I thought I would beat the snow by going to a 'well trodden' area. I headed back to Lake Louise thinking I might do the 'Plain of six glaciers' hike that Sarah and I had to turn back from in February this year when Sarah was beaten by the altitude.
I arrived in the car park at 09.15 and was only the third vehicle there, the owners of a Jeep were just starting out on their hike as I began the steady job of getting ready for the off. Whilst poking around the car park and using the facilities I came across a sign stating the Plain of six glaciers trail (and a few others) were closed due to avalanche risk, as if somehow summoned to demonstrate the point a huge boom echoed around the car park as tons of heavy wet snow descended from nearby Fairview mountain (another closed trail).
Reviewing my map for alternatives I decide to stay in the area and hike to lake Agnes and the 'Little Beehive'. At a little over 10k with some reasonable ascent it should be a nice hike on a day like today.
from the car park I walked around the end of the lake taking due cognisance of the 'Danger thin ice' signs that littered the banks of Lake Louise. As I crossed in front of the hotel and picked up the trail I saw the owners of the third vehicle in the car park wandering the lakeshore trail. It was incredibly quiet save the repeated boom of avalanches falling all around from the sheer sided mountains. The snow was very mushy and clearly melting quickly at the lower levels.
The initial section of the trail was very icy within the shade of the trees, micro spikes were needed to make any decent headway on the well trodden trail.
there are occasional breaks in the trees as I make my way through the forested section of the trail, these provide beautiful views across the lake toward Haddo Peak and Mount Aberdeen.
After a short while I pass the couple who were leaving the car park as I arrived, they don't have micro spikes and the steep sections of the forest trail are proving difficult for them. After exchanging pleasantries about the trail closures I press on and reach Mirror Lake with Big Beehive looming large above the ice and snow covered water
turning right at Mirror Lake I begin an much steeper ascent toward Lake Agnes which pushes me above the tree line giving my first views out across Fairview Mountain and South along the Trans Canada Highway.
out in the open the sun is beating down and really warm, by the time I reach the Lake Agnes tea house I'm down to my T-shirt, as I rise to the level of the safety fence it's clear to see why the tea house isn't open until June. Over the top of the tea house a large dark cloud looms on the horizon
as I round the front of the building I'm greeted by an almost melted little snowman, his droopy arms and scrawny neck bring a smile to my face and I decide to sit on the balcony of the tea house and see what happens with the approaching dark skies.
the views down the valley from the balcony are pretty good and the sun is still shining across the great divide, in a while the threatened storm passes with just a tiny smattering of rain and I sit it out under the canopy watching and listening to the avalanches pouring down from Mount St. Piran and the Devils Thumb that surround the tiny lake.
very soon the sun is shining down again on my only company (Mr Scrawny neck) I explore the start of the trail toward Little Beehive and find it untrodden and covered in deep wet snow deposited by previous avalanches.
before setting out further I put on the snow shoes, as I'm doing this the couple who started before me finally arrive though very quickly state that they are not going any further today before taking up prime position on the balcony.
the trail starts with a short very steep ascent before narrowing to a dicey looking cliff edge where piled wet snow makes the going very difficult, there appears to be little margin for error here and listening to the continuous flow of avalanches all day has done nothing to reassure me that this edge is particularly stable. I carefully edge my way along close to the cliff, feeling my way with the walking poles as I go
I felt relieved to get across that narrow section and onto a wider slope with views away to the South and ahead across a wide avalanche slope
The avalanche slope ahead is thick with snow holding many of the pine trees at unnatural angles as I begin crossing and ascending as I do
I can't help but feel exposed as I cross the slope but the angle of it is shallow and it feels firm underfoot, the snowshoes do their job and I make my way safely across, all the time looking out at the stunning mountains across lake Louise.
Once across the slope it is another steep ascent to a narrow ridge where I begin to feel a little nauseous and feel the first signs of a mild headache, I think the altitude may just be reminding me that exertion at 7500 feet is different to exertion at sea level. At least I now have a straightforward ridge top to walk along and can get my breath back as I do.
at the end of the ridge is an incredible vista looking out across the great divide to Lake Louise Ski resort and the Slate Range beyond
from the edge of the ridge (or as close as I'm going in this snow) the ski resort is an ugly scar on a pristine landscape, around to the far left of this shot is Merlin Ridge and the Merlin Valley stretching away into the distance, directly below is the Trans Canda highway heading West to Vancouver
even though I have a 10 minute sit down at the summit I still feel queasy and I decide to go back down to the tea house before having any lunch, heading back across the ridge the going is a little easier as I have my own trail to walk along
from the edge of the ridge the huge Château Lake Louise Hotel is dwarfed by the spectacular surroundings, the fluffy white clouds trundle by and still there has been no sign of the storms suggested earlier
back across the avalanche slopes still listening to the almost continuous boom and scrabble of distant snow movement, it is easy to understand why so many trails are closed today
once back past that damn skinny ridge with looming cliffs on one side and a huge drop on the other there was only one thing I was going to be doing, I laid down on the wooden sheets protecting the balcony of the tea house and closed my eyes..........
I'm not sure how long I was like that but I nodded of nicely before feeling a tap, tap, tapping on my left boot. In my half awake half asleep state the tapping worked itself into a dream about some old bloke tapping my foot with a walking stick, not sure what that's all about but when I woke to tell the old guy to quit I saw a tiny whiskey jack pecking at the sole of my boot trying to free up a piece of bread I'd trodden on.
Seconds later I realised I was freezing courtesy of falling asleep in my tee shirt at 7000 feet, I quickly got the fleece and jacket on then re-enacted the scene for the camera (though the whiskey jack didn't play along)
I'm not sure how long I was like that but I nodded of nicely before feeling a tap, tap, tapping on my left boot. In my half awake half asleep state the tapping worked itself into a dream about some old bloke tapping my foot with a walking stick, not sure what that's all about but when I woke to tell the old guy to quit I saw a tiny whiskey jack pecking at the sole of my boot trying to free up a piece of bread I'd trodden on.
Seconds later I realised I was freezing courtesy of falling asleep in my tee shirt at 7000 feet, I quickly got the fleece and jacket on then re-enacted the scene for the camera (though the whiskey jack didn't play along)
I did feel much better for the rest and shared my sandwiches with the whiskey jacks before setting off on the descent, before dropping into the trees I took just one more shot of Fairview Mountain and the valley beyond
I found a different trail option on the way down so I took the wider route to create a circuit that ultimately dropped down at the back of the hotel where a short walk on cleared paths led me back to the car park.
On one hand it was a shame I couldn't get to the plain of six glaciers ...again, but on the other hand I ended up doing a hike I would perhaps not have bothered with otherwise. Other than the strange bout of headache and queasy feeling this was a really enjoyable hike and a perfect time to do it......... before all the tourists return.