Our 2019 Prairie Road Trip
With my birthday and Canada day approaching, Sarah suggested we get away for a long weekend. We looked at all the usual places to the south but Sarah wanted to see Grasslands National Park after my recent visit there. I was happy to avoid wasting hours in airports or faffing about at border crossings so we opted for a leisurely roam through the prairies of southern Alberta and Saskatchewan.
We started out on thursday 27th June with a quiet drive along highway 22 south to the town of Pincher Creek. Once there we booked into our hotel and then set out for Beauvais Lake and Lundbreck Falls making a circular trip from Pincher Creek using highway 507 and highway 3. We have seen Lundbreck Falls before but never visited Beauvais Lake.
The overhead storms were expected and didn't bother us at all as we looked around this beautiful lake. A nice boat jetty with an exit ladder from the lake for swimmers and a kayak launch area sits comfortably on the gin clear water. Walking trails are plentiful and well maintained. Picnic areas offer comfort, shade and great views across the lake and there's plenty of wildlife all around the lake.
We started out on thursday 27th June with a quiet drive along highway 22 south to the town of Pincher Creek. Once there we booked into our hotel and then set out for Beauvais Lake and Lundbreck Falls making a circular trip from Pincher Creek using highway 507 and highway 3. We have seen Lundbreck Falls before but never visited Beauvais Lake.
The overhead storms were expected and didn't bother us at all as we looked around this beautiful lake. A nice boat jetty with an exit ladder from the lake for swimmers and a kayak launch area sits comfortably on the gin clear water. Walking trails are plentiful and well maintained. Picnic areas offer comfort, shade and great views across the lake and there's plenty of wildlife all around the lake.
We returned to our hotel and freshened up before making the short hop along highway 6 to Waterton Lakes National Park for the evening. Though we have been before it's our first visit to the park for a while. With strong storms overhead we stuck to the quay, lakeside and town areas. We managed to avoid all of the rain as it poured down as we ate dinner in a lovely waterside restaurant.
After dinner the skies cleared for an hour or so and we enjoyed a walk around the lake shore to the south of the town before returning as the storms blew back in. It was a lovely start to our prairie wanderings and one that left us thinking about a longer stay at Waterton later in the year.
After dinner the skies cleared for an hour or so and we enjoyed a walk around the lake shore to the south of the town before returning as the storms blew back in. It was a lovely start to our prairie wanderings and one that left us thinking about a longer stay at Waterton later in the year.
We left Pincher Creek the next morning and took the empty prairie highways south east through Cardston and Whiskey Gap to the small town of Milk River. We then turned directly east skirting the US border above Sweetgrass Montana until we reached Writing on Stone Provincial Park.
The name comes from the huge collection of Petroglyph sites containing thousands of individual works from first nations tribes who have always considered this area sacred. It's a really interesting and very unusual place to visit with wildflowers dotted throughout eroded sand formations created by glacial run off during the last ice age.
It was incredibly hot walking through the various trails without a breath of wind to cool the air, but we really enjoyed it and made a full circuit on the north shore of the milk river. When we circled back to the information centre Sarah went to use the adjoining bathroom when a bullsnake slithered across her path just before the entrance door. A little shriek and a run backwards with some sort of snake dance going on made me laugh out loud.
Sarah went into the visitor centre and told the ranger who was quickly on site to have a look. As I was close by taking a photo he said to me, oh just keep him here and I'll get a box from the truck, Ok says I with absolutely no idea how I might do that. Sure enough he attempted to get out from the corner of the wall he'd run into and I found myself moving uncomfortably close to him to force him back, fortunately the ranger returned in a few minutes with snake stick in hand and a transport box.
A short chase ensued before his capture, then he was quickly transported across the roadway and car park area and released unharmed in the long grass opposite.
We left the park and continued east into Saskatchewan to the town of Shaunavon where we had our next overnight stay already booked. Along the way we saw a golden eagle, a nesting red tailed hawk and a huge moose trotting in the fields beside the road. We also had to dodge thousands of ground squirrels that were enjoying sunbathing on the deserted highways.
The name comes from the huge collection of Petroglyph sites containing thousands of individual works from first nations tribes who have always considered this area sacred. It's a really interesting and very unusual place to visit with wildflowers dotted throughout eroded sand formations created by glacial run off during the last ice age.
It was incredibly hot walking through the various trails without a breath of wind to cool the air, but we really enjoyed it and made a full circuit on the north shore of the milk river. When we circled back to the information centre Sarah went to use the adjoining bathroom when a bullsnake slithered across her path just before the entrance door. A little shriek and a run backwards with some sort of snake dance going on made me laugh out loud.
Sarah went into the visitor centre and told the ranger who was quickly on site to have a look. As I was close by taking a photo he said to me, oh just keep him here and I'll get a box from the truck, Ok says I with absolutely no idea how I might do that. Sure enough he attempted to get out from the corner of the wall he'd run into and I found myself moving uncomfortably close to him to force him back, fortunately the ranger returned in a few minutes with snake stick in hand and a transport box.
A short chase ensued before his capture, then he was quickly transported across the roadway and car park area and released unharmed in the long grass opposite.
We left the park and continued east into Saskatchewan to the town of Shaunavon where we had our next overnight stay already booked. Along the way we saw a golden eagle, a nesting red tailed hawk and a huge moose trotting in the fields beside the road. We also had to dodge thousands of ground squirrels that were enjoying sunbathing on the deserted highways.
We settled into our hotel in Shaunavon ready for the next morning and a trip to Grasslands National Park. This was the main reason for the trip, I had been a few weeks previously and Sarah loved the pictures and wanted to see it herself. It wasn't a difficult decision for me to return, I love the park and will no doubt be back again.
We started out at the two trees campground where we were joined by a little Richardson Ground Squirrel who was living in a hole beneath one of the teepees there. The rustle of a wholegrain bar certainly got his interest and I got the distinct impression that his home close to the picnic table was paying dividends.
We sat in the chairs provided at the site and watched the comings and goings of eagles, squirrels, goldfinches, swallows and numerous other critters. Clear skies and sunshine overhead with a beautiful cooling breeze made it a perfect spot that we found difficult to leave. But, the call of the west block of the park and Top Dogtown in particular was enough to get us moving and we drove around through the town of Val Marie to the entrance there. We parked at Top Dogtown and made the short loop hike while watching and being watched by the residents. On my last visit it was clear many of the prairie dogs were heavily pregnant, today the place was full of pups galloping everywhere and chasing each other around with the naivety of youth.
From top dogtown we moved on through the park stopping at the riverwalk trail and the buffalo rubbing stone trail to stretch the legs. At lunchtime we stopped in the day use car park overlooking the river valley and had a picnic on one of the benches provided, in the shade of an overhanging tree. After our picnic we walked a trail to an overlook with the usual Canadian red seats provided, the wide valley below was lush with fresh spring growth and deer roamed through the grass by the river. We did see three buffalo but they were very far off on the hills opposite.
From here we moved on toward the Larson Homestead in Frenchman Valley and spotted a prairie badger in the grass along the way. He wasn't hanging around for pictures and I had to jog after him to get one as he ran before he ducked into his sett. Luckily for me he couldn't resist peeping out to see if I was still around so I managed to grab another shot.
After the excitement of the badger we moved on to the campsite in Frenchman Valley for cold drinks and a chat to the ranger about the cabin/tents there before going on to the Larson homestead and then onto the last stop of the day, the Larson colony of prairie dogs.
As we made the drive back to Shaunavon Sarah talked non stop about the park, I was so glad that she enjoyed it so much because it's one of those places you won't enjoy if you need 'entertaining'. It is an incredibly tranquil, vast place with very few people and very little noise and slips easily into your 'favourites' column once you have seen it.
We started out at the two trees campground where we were joined by a little Richardson Ground Squirrel who was living in a hole beneath one of the teepees there. The rustle of a wholegrain bar certainly got his interest and I got the distinct impression that his home close to the picnic table was paying dividends.
We sat in the chairs provided at the site and watched the comings and goings of eagles, squirrels, goldfinches, swallows and numerous other critters. Clear skies and sunshine overhead with a beautiful cooling breeze made it a perfect spot that we found difficult to leave. But, the call of the west block of the park and Top Dogtown in particular was enough to get us moving and we drove around through the town of Val Marie to the entrance there. We parked at Top Dogtown and made the short loop hike while watching and being watched by the residents. On my last visit it was clear many of the prairie dogs were heavily pregnant, today the place was full of pups galloping everywhere and chasing each other around with the naivety of youth.
From top dogtown we moved on through the park stopping at the riverwalk trail and the buffalo rubbing stone trail to stretch the legs. At lunchtime we stopped in the day use car park overlooking the river valley and had a picnic on one of the benches provided, in the shade of an overhanging tree. After our picnic we walked a trail to an overlook with the usual Canadian red seats provided, the wide valley below was lush with fresh spring growth and deer roamed through the grass by the river. We did see three buffalo but they were very far off on the hills opposite.
From here we moved on toward the Larson Homestead in Frenchman Valley and spotted a prairie badger in the grass along the way. He wasn't hanging around for pictures and I had to jog after him to get one as he ran before he ducked into his sett. Luckily for me he couldn't resist peeping out to see if I was still around so I managed to grab another shot.
After the excitement of the badger we moved on to the campsite in Frenchman Valley for cold drinks and a chat to the ranger about the cabin/tents there before going on to the Larson homestead and then onto the last stop of the day, the Larson colony of prairie dogs.
As we made the drive back to Shaunavon Sarah talked non stop about the park, I was so glad that she enjoyed it so much because it's one of those places you won't enjoy if you need 'entertaining'. It is an incredibly tranquil, vast place with very few people and very little noise and slips easily into your 'favourites' column once you have seen it.
Our next day was a change of scenery as we headed west to the centre block of Cypress Hills Inter-provincial Park. We have been to the west block last year and really enjoyed it so thought we would drop in here and check it out. This section is much busier and more commercial with cafes, boat rental, family beaches and segway tours. It's not as large as the west block either but it's still a lovely stop off along the way.
We sat and had coffee and cake in the sunshine before taking a hike around the lake to a little beach area. We resisted the urge to rent a boat and got back on the road within an hour or so.
We sat and had coffee and cake in the sunshine before taking a hike around the lake to a little beach area. We resisted the urge to rent a boat and got back on the road within an hour or so.
If I am in the south west of Saskatchewan then it is a given that I'm going to stop in at the Great Sand Hills. I really like this place, it's another one of those wide open, rarely visited areas of Saskatchewan. The dunes comprise some that are still moving and slowly devouring the prairie ahead of them, and some that are static thanks to prairie plants that have taken hold.
It was nice to see other people enjoying a picnic by the car park when we arrived, so we could safely leave the car and head out to the rear dunes that are a hike away from the parking area. Sarah and I were here on the dunes at dusk some time ago when a local scumbag pulled into the car park and after some furtive movement headed straight for my truck. I turned on my torch and made noise so he could see us and he sprinted back to his vehicle and took off at a rate of knots, I've never trusted this place since. It's a real shame because it's a spectacular sunset location and I would love to do some night shots around the dunes, but the thought of leaving my car alone in this place at dusk is less than appealing.
Back to today when Sarah and I had the comfort of a family group picnicking by the car park, so we took advantage of the increased security and headed off into the back dunes. I did find a great spot for a milky way image but I'm not sure how I'd get to make it without feeling exposed when leaving the car.
As we walked the rear dunes a dust devil sprang up and chased us across the top before whipping sand in our faces for a few seconds. It soon moved on and we enjoyed exploring the dunes far from the access point and the 'crowd' there.
Scumbags aside, this is still one of my favourite places out here, another open, tranquil place that transports you to its own alien environment for an hour or two.
It was nice to see other people enjoying a picnic by the car park when we arrived, so we could safely leave the car and head out to the rear dunes that are a hike away from the parking area. Sarah and I were here on the dunes at dusk some time ago when a local scumbag pulled into the car park and after some furtive movement headed straight for my truck. I turned on my torch and made noise so he could see us and he sprinted back to his vehicle and took off at a rate of knots, I've never trusted this place since. It's a real shame because it's a spectacular sunset location and I would love to do some night shots around the dunes, but the thought of leaving my car alone in this place at dusk is less than appealing.
Back to today when Sarah and I had the comfort of a family group picnicking by the car park, so we took advantage of the increased security and headed off into the back dunes. I did find a great spot for a milky way image but I'm not sure how I'd get to make it without feeling exposed when leaving the car.
As we walked the rear dunes a dust devil sprang up and chased us across the top before whipping sand in our faces for a few seconds. It soon moved on and we enjoyed exploring the dunes far from the access point and the 'crowd' there.
Scumbags aside, this is still one of my favourite places out here, another open, tranquil place that transports you to its own alien environment for an hour or two.
From here we drove to Drumheller and had a night in a local hostelry with excellent food where we celebrated my birthday and met an 'east end lad' who was married to a Canadian and now living here. We shared tales around the table for a hour or two and it capped off another fantastic prairie road trip leaving us just a short hop home the next morning.