Skyline Trail - Nova Scotia
Date Walked: 1st October 2014
Distance: 5.7 miles (9.2km)
Actual Ascent: 1330 ft (405m)
Time Taken: 3 hours
I have longed to hike the Skyline Trail in Nova Scotia for many years, in the very early 1990's I became aware of Halifax Nova Scotia whilst working in Halifax UK. Looking up the North American city I saw the Cabot Trail and from this the Skyline Trail hike, I didn't know at the time that this is a 'bucket list' hike for many hikers across the globe but I did know I wanted to go there.
20 years later and now living in Canada it was only a matter of time before I made the 5 hour flight to the east coast, so it was that Sarah and I arrived in Halifax Nova Scotia in late September 2014. After exploring the beautiful coastline, heading inland to New Brunswick and Prince Edward Island we finally made the drive north to Cape Breton National Park and the beautiful Cabot Trail.
20 years later and now living in Canada it was only a matter of time before I made the 5 hour flight to the east coast, so it was that Sarah and I arrived in Halifax Nova Scotia in late September 2014. After exploring the beautiful coastline, heading inland to New Brunswick and Prince Edward Island we finally made the drive north to Cape Breton National Park and the beautiful Cabot Trail.
For many people the Cabot Trail is also a 'bucket list' item, not so much for me though I did want to drive the road. At just 185 miles in length it does cover some spectacular scenery. Literally taking you from coast to coast via the Cape Breton Highlands National Park it provides the most beautiful distraction as Sarah and I head toward the Skyline Trail car park.
We had worked out a 48 hour window, staying in wonderful self catering accommodation on the east side of the Cabot Trail just within the Cape Breton Highlands National Park. Lantern Hill and Hollow met our needs perfectly and we would recommend it to those people seeking accommodation from which to explore the park.
As we set out on October 1st we could hardly believe our good fortune, this tiny peninsula surrounded by sea on 3 sides and known for its hanging fog was predicted to clear to a beautiful blue sky day. It is a 1.5 hour drive through the park from Lantern Hill to the trailhead car park and the further we travelled the better the weather became. We stopped off at a small roadside restaurant for lunch along the way and had just placed our order when a coach arrived with 52 hungry pensioners on board and filled the place. We were fortunate to get our lunch before the staff began dealing with that onslaught.
As we set out on October 1st we could hardly believe our good fortune, this tiny peninsula surrounded by sea on 3 sides and known for its hanging fog was predicted to clear to a beautiful blue sky day. It is a 1.5 hour drive through the park from Lantern Hill to the trailhead car park and the further we travelled the better the weather became. We stopped off at a small roadside restaurant for lunch along the way and had just placed our order when a coach arrived with 52 hungry pensioners on board and filled the place. We were fortunate to get our lunch before the staff began dealing with that onslaught.
When we arrived at the car park there were fewer vehicles than I expected so parking was easy and close to the trailhead. When we returned the car park was heaving with people crawling around looking for spaces so an early start would always be wise for anyone considering this hike.
The notice boards here carry an unusual warning beside the usual bear/moose/mountain lion ones that are ever present in Canada, here the warnings include Coyotes. This is a response to the only known Coyote attack on a human being in Nova Scotia. In October 2009 a 19 year old singer from Toronto called Taylor Mitchell was killed by Coyotes whilst hiking the Skyline Trail between tour appearances. It is an incredibly rare occurrence and specialists were brought in to try and understand what happened, ultimately a number of Coyotes were shot and warnings posted but the incident was never really explained. It is thought an unusually confident Coyote group scared the poor girl so much that she ran, and in doing so triggered the predator 'v' prey response in the Coyotes. Whatever the reason for the attack, it must have been an unimaginably terrible ordeal for Taylor Mitchell. It's remarkable that nobody was close enough to help given the popularity of the trail, ultimately it was a perfect storm of coincidences that resulted in the most unlikely of outcomes, I used that explanation to keep Sarah happy as we set out along the trail.
The notice boards here carry an unusual warning beside the usual bear/moose/mountain lion ones that are ever present in Canada, here the warnings include Coyotes. This is a response to the only known Coyote attack on a human being in Nova Scotia. In October 2009 a 19 year old singer from Toronto called Taylor Mitchell was killed by Coyotes whilst hiking the Skyline Trail between tour appearances. It is an incredibly rare occurrence and specialists were brought in to try and understand what happened, ultimately a number of Coyotes were shot and warnings posted but the incident was never really explained. It is thought an unusually confident Coyote group scared the poor girl so much that she ran, and in doing so triggered the predator 'v' prey response in the Coyotes. Whatever the reason for the attack, it must have been an unimaginably terrible ordeal for Taylor Mitchell. It's remarkable that nobody was close enough to help given the popularity of the trail, ultimately it was a perfect storm of coincidences that resulted in the most unlikely of outcomes, I used that explanation to keep Sarah happy as we set out along the trail.
Initially from the trailhead a wide road cuts through the vegetation heading inland and away from our target at a very gentle incline leading toward a staging area where a number of ranger vehicles were parked. We strode out laughing and joking enjoying the wonderful weather and our time in Nova Scotia overall.
After approximately 1.5 km the trail meets a narrower and more shaded trail at the staging area. The ferns beneath the trees had turned to autumn shades and really made a great splash of colour alongside the trail.
The trail throughout the first section is perhaps, not one for the purist. It is a well maintained gravel bed with boarding placed over any drainage but somehow it doesn't spoil the hike, notices explain the purpose is to prevent erosion. At least a trail like this makes it much easier going and the ferns continue to provide trailside colour for several km's
The first glimpse of the sea comes from some distance away as the trees open out for a short break through a high meadow, the trail is still very easy going with little noticeable ascent.
After crossing the open meadow our sea view is once again replaced by forest, the colour returns and the shade provides a welcome cooling as the afternoon temperatures begin to hot up and I am down to the T-shirt already.
Boggy areas are boarded over for some distance providing easy passage for hikers and animals too by the look of the footprints here and there, clearly animals are using the pathway too, it strikes me that it would be funny to see a moose standing on here.
It is a measure of just how hot it is this afternoon when Sarah has to strip down to the T-shirt too using the well known ceremonial fleece removing phrase "its warmer than I thought"
After the bog crossing boards we return to treelined trail once more. The trail is noticeably narrower here but still allows two people to walk side by side making it one of very few sociable hiking trails.
A small clearing provides excellent views back over the Cabot Trail as it twists alongside French Mountain, showing at least a little of why people love to drive it.
We realise we are getting toward that elusive sea view when we reach a boardwalk/decking area strewn with notices about sticking to the boards and photographs/explanation of previous erosion which resulted in the boardwalk being built.
Somehow the boardwalk has added to this hike, it has become a 'thing' all of its own, people want to tread the boards along that final stretch of the Skyline Trail and see the Gulf of St Lawrence from the very last platform.
Sarah and I were no different to those who went before or those who are yet to go to this stunning location, we were beaming like cheshire cats as we soaked in the sunshine on the final steps of this 'bucket list' hike.
As we make our way along the boardwalk we stop for photos and sometimes just to take in the view across the Gulf of St Lawrence, many of the occasional benches already have weary hikers resting their bones but there is a little way to go yet.
Everyone we meet has a beaming smile, even those who have made the descent to the last platform and returned, though they are smiling while breathing heavily.
We keep on dropping down the steps provided, I even had a little jog ahead to grab a few shots of Sarah on the steps. We actually came across a squirrel hiding under the platform, every time someone passed by he would scurry out and check for picnic leftovers.
I'm sure someone somewhere has counted the steps down to the last platform, I haven't. The views are beautiful and the red heather of autumn just adds to the wonder. It's one thing to achieve an ambition that has been held for over 20 years, it's quite something else to achieve it in these conditions with Sarah alongside me.
Closing in on the final platform, fewer and fewer people are down here, it seems they have had enough just walking to the top of the hill, Sarah and I have no complaints about the availability of benches down here.
From the very last platform a narrow trail winds its way out along a spit of land, I intended to follow it but the signs say otherwise. If it was going up to a summit that would be a real disappointment but down to a little point, not so much.
The small speck on the sea in the image above is a 30m sailing ship that we have watched charging through the water for a long time now, it is moving fast but seemingly getting nowhere. If we saw this in a harbour it would be quite an impressive vessel, once out at sea it is quickly put into perspective.
After a brief chat with another couple who were on the final platform we managed to get just a few minutes all to ourselves, the sea breeze was chilling Sarah as we posed for our "can't believe we're here" photo, my 'layers' ensured my fleece stayed tied around my waist.
After sitting around taking in the views and taking in some sustenance we reluctantly turned around and headed back up the steps to continue our hike around the Skyline circuit.
Almost back at the top and that small speck of a boat is still scooting along trying to get somewhere in an expanse of water that seems determined to keep him where he is.
Once we got back off the boardwalk we turned left to continue our hike round the circuit, suddenly it looked a lot more like a hiking trail. There were virtually no other people taking this route which adds a mile or so to the hike but is worth it just for the change of scenery and the lack of other people along here.
The route initially follows the coast allowing more sea views as we head north along an ever narrowing trail. Without seeing a map and being so different from the approach trail, it would be possible to begin questioning the route along here but there is little chance of taking the wrong direction on a well worn trail.
There is some ascent along here as it turns inland but it is gradual and prolonged rather than sudden and steep. There are no more boardwalks and man made structures and it makes a nice closing few km's to this wonderful hike.
As we make the ascent through the forested section a break in the trees allows the sun to burst through and illuminate this fern from the opposite side to us making it 'pop' in the dark undergrowth of the forest floor.
After rising back to the flat top of the mountain, a wide open trail appears through the grassy meadow and looking back provides one final view of the sea
The trail eventually meets up with its less natural counterpart about 2 km from the car park, we are soon sharing the trail with a number of other hikers, all of which are heading outward, it seems they all saw the sunshine and decided to head out making me glad we saw the forecast and took a chance on the skies clearing.
Sarah hears something in the forest as we make our way back and says it was 'big'. We stop to listen for a while and sure enough a moose call bellows out from behind the thick trees, we can't see him but he is doing his very best to impress a female by the sounds of it. Our only visual wildlife encounter was with this ptarmigan who strolled out onto the trail as we passed.
As far as a map goes, this is it. The left section is the less natural trail which many use as an 'out and back' route, for what it's worth I think the longer return is worth it and makes a great end to this wonderful hike.