Stonehaven to Inverbervie
Date Walked: 5th May 2011
Distance: 13.5 miles (22km)
Actual Ascent: 902 ft (275m)
Time Taken: 6.5 hours
I had been considering this coastal jaunt for a while now and having been away all week I decided my first day back in Scotland was going to be the time. Sunshine was predicted for the entire day so an offshore breeze would be ideal rather than slogging up a mountain in the heat.
I drove to Stonehaven from home and parked in the harbour side car park (free), once I had got the boots on/bag packed I set off at a good pace. The first sight of the day is the beautiful little harbour at Stonehaven boasting 2 good pubs (I prefer the Ship Inn), good food at both and at the Toll Booth Restaurant and best of all the ice cream shop on the corner that sells a lovely Irn Bru ice cream..that was my first stop of the day
Once I had enjoyed my ice cream by the harbour I set off through the tiny ally named 'Wallace Wynd' (walk past the Ship Inn and Marine Hotel then you will see it on the right) a brown sign then directs you toward Dunnator Castle which takes you up out of the town to the 'Bervi Braes'
it's a great view across the triple harbour of Stonehaven from here but there is no time to sit and daydream today
from the apex of the road above the town is the start of the coastal path to Dunnator Castle
just south of Stonehaven on the summit of Black Hill is the war memorial whch is only a small detour off the route and worthy of a vist
from here you can see the pathway leading to the castle and get an overview of the beautiful coast
a particularly low tide exposed rocks I didn't know existed here even though I have made the walk to the castle from Stonehaven many, many times
it is a pleasant family walk to the castle and back from Stonehaven but I have no intention of returning this way, I carry on across a small bridge to the south side of the castle
there's a patch of grass on this side that appears mown but is in fact eaten off by rabbits! it does provide a great vantage point for the castle view
continuing south around the bay the castle demands that I take more pictures of it, it really is a very photogenic location, you can go in the castle for a fee (about £5 for adults I think) but no time for that today
the incredible cliffs continue to sweep away to the south toward the RSPB 'Fowlsheugh' reserve
there is still a very slight path but it is overgorwn and full of rabbit holes leading to some real 'ankle snappers' on occasion
in a cave further south a colony of seals are kept company by a huge number of sea birds hanging to the cliff ledges along the inlet
I know I'm getting close to the RSPB reserve when I find guillemots and razorbills covering the cliff face
as I arrive at the north end of the reserve I see a new stone hide created very recently and dedicated to a couple who bequeathed funding to build it.
I was unable to go in as it was locked but it does look an excellent little construction.....the grass needs water though
the reserve has a number of seats and information boards, good paths and steps and is well worth a visit in its own right, even though it is only about 1.5 miles in length.
every black spot on these cliffs is either a guillemot or a razorbill
at the south end of the reserve (the entrance if visiting by road) is a good firm pathway that dips down and up again over a small bridge over a burn
the final shot of the reserve is just south of the entrance where that small burn cascades over the cliff into the sea below
after the reserve I continue south past this picture window in the old disused buildings
I walk another couple of miles then find a beautiful spot to sit and have a cuppa and a bit to eat looking across catterline bay toward todhead lighthouse
once up and away again I decide to grab some different shots so I drop down a seriously steep descent to the beach at catterline bay
I walked around the bay and ascended again at the south side, within less that 10 minutes I came across a very long inlet that would have been a real pain to walk around
so I drop down again to ford the small burn cursing the fact that I only just ascended
I decide to stay on the shoreline until I get to the lighthouse and enjoy myself skipping around the rockpools
at a remote shingle beach below the lighthouse I find another waterfall tucked away into the cliff side
directly below the lighthouse is a small bay with seemingly private moorings and a series of steps up to the cliff top
I am envious of this beautiful private house away on the cliffs with its own moorings but am thankful for (and make use of) their steps up the cliffs
in no time at all the lighthouse is left behind and the journey south continues
there are signs of springtime everywhere and beautiful little coves in their thousands all along the walk
at times the cliff top is very narrow and a little dicey but on a dry day there is no problem
another inlet forces me inland a little way past a small forest of gorse bushes
after this my OS map shows a number of inlets so I take to the hills and the welcome soft/short meadow grass, I calculate a route up that will avoid the inlets and proved a nice overview of the town once within range
the locals are not impressed with a stranger wandering through, particularly when he is wearing an Australian bush hat
at last below me I see Inverbervie, with another inlet leading in from the left I stay above the coastline for a few hundred metres before turning again to the cliffs
I soon come across a slight problem and am seriously considering a paddle when I review the map and see a footbridge a little way inland
dropping down through the gorse into a meadow I see the bridge ahead and the curving arches of the main road bridge in the distance
once across the bridge I took a long rest by the river and had more tea and snacks, then into town find the bus stop and took the bus back to Stonehaven where a short walk around the bay brought me back to the car park, very weary but very happy.
This was a really enjoyable walk, I confess I wouldn't do it again but I would/will be doing more coastal walks as a result of this one. Having the coast to yourself for miles on end is quite addictive